Starting input monitor0%
Plug in a controller and watch every button, stick and trigger report live. Nothing leaves your browser.
Waiting for a controller
This controller does not report the standard layout, so the diagram stays idle. Every input still reads correctly in the panels below.
Plug it in over USB or pair it over Bluetooth, then press any button — browsers only reveal a pad once it sends input.
Tip press A or Cross now
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LB
RB
0/0inputs verified
Left stick at rest—
Right stick at rest—
Let go of both sticks for a few seconds to measure drift.
Browsers hide a controller until it sends input, so press a button or nudge a stick after connecting. Bluetooth pads need to be paired in your system settings first, and a few wireless dongles only appear once the receiver is seated properly. Firefox, Chrome and Edge all work; Safari support is partial.
Drift is when a stick reports movement while you are not touching it. Release both sticks and watch the resting figures above. Under 0.05 is normal wear. A reading that climbs on its own, or sits above your deadzone, means the potentiometer or hall sensor is worn and games will creep without input.
The deadzone is the slack a game ignores around centre so small imperfections do not move your character. Raising it hides mild drift at the cost of fine aim. Use the slider to find the smallest value that keeps your resting dot inside the dashed circle.
The whole check takes about a minute. Work down the page and the diagnostics panel keeps score of what you have proved is working.
Plug the pad in over USB, or pair it over Bluetooth in your system settings first. USB is the more reliable of the two for testing because it rules out pairing and battery problems.
Browsers keep a controller hidden until it sends input, so press A or Cross once. The status light turns teal the moment the pad is seen.
Work around the pad: face buttons, both bumpers, both triggers, all four D-pad directions, View and Menu, and press both sticks in until they click.
Each input lights orange on the diagram and ticks off a chip in Diagnostics. A chip that refuses to light is the fault you came here to find.
Rotate each stick slowly through a full circle against the outer edge. The dot should trace a clean ring and reach the rim in every direction.
Squeeze each trigger from rest to fully down. A healthy analog trigger sweeps smoothly from 0% to 100% without jumping or stopping short.
Take your hands off the pad for a few seconds. The resting numbers settle and the panel tells you whether either stick is reporting movement on its own.
Under 0.05 is normal wear. Higher than that is drift. Raise the deadzone slider until the resting dot sits inside the dashed circle to see how much slack a game would need to hide it.
The questions that come up most often about controller faults, and what the readings on this page actually mean.
Browsers deliberately hide a controller until it sends input, so press any button or move a stick after plugging it in. That single press is usually the whole fix.
If it still does not appear: check the pad is paired in your operating system first, try a different USB port or a data-capable cable rather than a charge-only one, close Steam and other overlays that can grab the device exclusively, and make sure a wireless dongle is seated properly.
Let go of both sticks and watch the resting deviation reading in the Diagnostics panel. A healthy stick settles under about 0.05.
Anything that keeps moving on its own, or sits well above your deadzone, is drifting. In a game that shows up as your character walking or your aim sliding while you are not touching anything.
Yes. Any pad your operating system recognises reports through the browser Gamepad API over USB or Bluetooth, including Xbox Series and Xbox One pads, the DualSense and DualShock 4, the Switch Pro Controller, Joy-Cons, and third-party pads from 8BitDo, Logitech, Razer, PowerA and others.
Pads that report the standard mapping are drawn on the diagram. Everything else falls back to a numbered readout, which still tests every input correctly.
The diagram only animates for pads that report the browser's standard mapping. Some arcade sticks, flight controls, racing wheels and older or unusual pads report a custom layout instead, so the drawing would light the wrong parts.
When that happens the diagram dims and the Buttons panel switches to raw indexes. Every input is still read and tested, just by number rather than by name.
Rumble needs three things at once: a pad with motors, a browser that exposes them, and a connection that carries them. Chrome and Edge support the dual-rumble effect; Firefox and Safari support is limited or absent.
The Device panel tells you which side is missing. If it reads unavailable, the browser cannot see the motors at all. Trying the same pad over USB instead of Bluetooth often brings them back.
Usually yes, and it is a common one. Analog triggers use a sensor that wears, and dirt or a worn spring can stop the pull short. A trigger that reads 92% at full squeeze will feel unresponsive in racing and shooter games.
A trigger that jumps between values rather than sweeping smoothly points at the same problem. Compare both triggers against each other on the meters before deciding.
A deadzone is the slack a game ignores around the centre of a stick so that tiny imperfections do not move your character. The slider here lets you see the effect.
Raising it hides mild drift at the cost of fine aim, so find the smallest value that keeps the resting dot inside the dashed circle. If you need more than about 0.20, the stick is worn enough to be worth repairing.
Sometimes. Drift is often dust or worn contacts in the potentiometer rather than a dead part, so compressed air around the stick base, or a proper contact cleaner applied by someone comfortable opening the pad, can clear it.
If it returns, the stick module itself is worn. Replacement modules are cheap, and hall-effect sticks use magnets instead of contacts so they do not wear the same way. Check your warranty first, because opening the pad will usually void it.
Chrome, Edge, Firefox, Opera and other Chromium browsers all work well on Windows, macOS, Linux and ChromeOS. Safari supports the Gamepad API but lags on rumble and on some pad layouts.
On Android, Chrome reads most Bluetooth pads. On iPhone and iPad, Safari reads MFi and modern console pads paired in system settings.
No. Everything on this page is computed in your browser from the live Gamepad API and then discarded. No button presses, stick positions or device names are sent to a server, stored, or shared. Closing the tab ends it completely.
Every tool runs in this tab, reads your hardware directly through the browser, and stores nothing.
Live waveform, level meter in dBFS, noise floor reading, and instant record and playback.
SpeakersLeft and right channel checks, a tone generator, and a 20 Hz to 20 kHz hearing sweep.
KeyboardLight up a full layout key by key, read live key codes, and test N-key rollover.
MouseButtons, scroll wheel, movement trace, polling rate in Hz, and a double-click chatter check.
WebcamLive preview, real resolution and measured frame rate, camera switching and snapshots.
ScreenDead pixel hunt, backlight bleed check, gradient banding, and a measured refresh rate.